Do you have any questions about lash filler courses? How to time the chemical reaction for optimal results? Today, we will clarify how porosity affects the hair's response to chemicals. Understanding these concepts will help you achieve better lash filler results!
How often have you had doubts about the timing of substances for the InLei® Lash Filler treatment? How often have you questioned whether or not the exposure time is too long or insufficient?
Today, let's discuss a few points about this issue. you must watch two crucial elements to understand how the chemical reactions of the perm or coloration process occur:
- hair structure
- the porosity of the hair
HAIR POROSITY: WHAT IT IS AND HOW TO RECOGNIZE IT
First of all, the shiny/dull appearance of the hair depends on its porosity. Porosity is the hair's ability to absorb moisture and can be low, medium, or high.
To understand which category the hair you are treating belongs to, you need to look at the cuticle. It won't be easy if you don't have a microscope handy, so you must rely on absorption capacity.
Here's what happens depending on the type of hair:
• Low porosity (low absorption capacity) - the
"flakes" of the cuticle adhere very well, and the hair is gleaming, like in advertisements. Chemicals have difficulty penetrating these hairs, so exposure times increase for both perm and dye.
• Medium porosity - most hairs. When the scales of the cuticle are slightly raised and thin, or the cuticular layers are few due to ethnicity. These hairs are generally very obedient (easy to handle).
• High porosity (high absorption capacity) - when the cuticle scales are raised (weak). This does not allow the humidity to stay long, so the hair tries to absorb as much as possible at every opportunity. This hair is visibly brittle and dull (usually, it is hair that has been badly treated and damaged) but remember that a large part of curly hair is also highly porous! During the absorption of the perm ( Form 1 ), you will notice that this hair literally "eats" the solution (which changes from intense white and becomes transparent milky white).
→ shiny hair = low porosity = leave on for more time
→ opaque hair = high porosity = leave substances on for less time because they are
absorbed very quickly
STRUCTURE OF THE LASHES
Starting with porosity, we can also analyze elasticity. They both depend on each other. The ability to retain moisture ensures that the keratin remains elastic, especially at the hairline.
Here too, we divide the cases into three categories:
• Soft hair - often, this type is very obedient when being pulled onto the curler, but at times it can become rebellious: in some cases, the hair is so soft and compliant that it creates "waves" that are very difficult to straighten. Generally, these hairs rarely escape the curler when the first (Form 1) solution is applied.
• Medium hair - is obedient hair. It lays on the curler without problems and usually falls within medium porosity. Sometimes, during the first solution, a few hairs can escape. Pay Attention: in these cases, you must put hairs back in position.
• Stiff and bristly coat - this hair shows a lot of resistance to the "crease on the curler," and we have to use a lot of glue to keep it at bay. If you don't apply enough glue, many lashes will escape during the Form 1 application. We often call it "vitreous" (as if it were made of glass) because it also sometimes has low porosity and is very shiny.
REMEMBER - This is not about the diameter of the hair: very fine hair can be very stiff, and thick hair can be very soft.
PROCESSING TIMES OF LASHES InLei® FORM 1
This table shows how long you should expose your hair to the dye based on its porosity and structure. Keep in mind that there are always exceptions!
EXCEPTIONS TO THE RULE
Very fine and not very porous hair: Soft hair that is rigid to the touch.
Average time: can vary from 10 to 14 minutes. If you had stopped at the visual analysis, you would have chosen 6 minutes!
Many redheaded girls have a poor ability to absorb light. This is because their hair has both a soft and a rigid structure. Very fine and not very porous hair
Soft structure only in appearance: it often rebels a lot during the time on the curler. The processing time increases by one minute when compared to the above table.
Italian hair: the structure seems soft to the appearance and the touch. In reality, it is very rebellious. Its surface is quite shiny (well-closed cuticles). Under the light, you can see there is a "glass effect."
You probably would have chosen the times of a medium structure and porosity (9 min). In reality, it is a medium-stiff / stiff hair with low porosity. Average time: 13 minutes.
Here is an example of "glassy" hair.
The first photo was taken 1 minute after applying Form 1 and the second after 11
minutes. Please pay attention to the absorption: here, it is imperceptible, and the hair responds slowly.
IMPROVE YOUR TECHNIQUE AND BECOME A LASH FILLER PROFESSIONAL
What counts now is being a "trusted operator," the one who makes a difference! It is necessary to apply precision and competence to become well-known in the eyelash industry: the client can tell the difference between a poor treatment and one done correctly, as well as between those that know the sector thoroughly and those that don't know anything at all.
Furthermore, several potential risks are associated with technical and chemical inadequacies! If done incorrectly, eyelash perm treatment may pose a variety of dangers. Incorrect processing times can cause the customer's eyelashes to burn, and incorrect use of some products could cause severe eye irritation.
Why take risks? If you want to become a successful lamimaker, we recommend enrolling in the Lash Filler course, which is finally available in the USA through My Absolute Beauty! Find out more on the website.
More questions? check out our frequent questions blog here!
Are you ready to dive into InLei Lash Filling? Score 10% off your purchase with My Absolute Beauty using code SPECIAL10.
This blog was translated from Light Lashes Academy. The original can be viewed by clicking here.